svbony filter with package

Svbony CLS

Formats

  • 1.25″ Mounted
  • 2″ Mounted (48mm thread)
  • Canon EOS APS-C Clip-in

Spectral Transmission

Yellow line is published transmission. Color fill is my independent verification with the filter I tested. Note: I used a Quartz Tungsten-Halogen bulb which is broad spectrum, but does not have good throughput in the blues hence I only vouch for the accuracy of my independent verification from 500-900nm.

Physical Characteristics of 2″ filter

  • Filter mount thickness: above threads: 4.94mm; including threads: 6.72mm
  • 48mm threads
  • Minimal knurling only on top
  • Highly reflective interference filter
  • Inner retaining ring does have notches for easy filter disassembly with a spanner

Real world tests

Bortle 4, Canon 5D mk iii (stock), AT60ED at f/6, ISO1600, 15 min integration (6*150s)
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Bortle 4, QHY168C, Cooled to -10C, AT60ED at f/6, Unity gain, 18 min integration (6*180s)
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Bortle 9, Canon 5D mk iii (stock), AT60ED at f/6, ISO1600, 10.5 min integration (7*90s)
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Bortle 9, QHY168C, Cooled to -10C, AT60ED at f/6, Unity gain, 15 min integration (5*180s)
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Reader Rating48 Votes
54
Pros
Low cost
Easy to disassemble for DIY mods
Cons
Poor star color with DSLR
Limited formats
CLS concept outdated with move to LED streetlights
82
Purchase from:
  1. I bought the same filter, I also bought the Baader Fringe Killer to use on my 503 ED80 and my Meade LX85 R5 5″ f/5.8 Refractors to help eliminate the Chromati Aberration.

  2. Thanks for posting these and the video. I shoot with an unmodified DSLR in bortle 8 skies and am looking for a filter. Was thinking of trying the SvBony, but it looks like I see chromatic aberration or similar artifacts on the stars.

    I am confused by your comment about the filter being ‘outdated’. Doesn’t the L-Pro pass even more light in the mid-spectrum? Also, you mention bad star color for the SvBony, but wouldn’t the L-Enhance be even worse, it has even smaller passbands.

    1. Hi Stan,
      A CLS is a very simple kind of light pollution filter that works on the idea that most light pollution will be in the Yellow-Orange spectrum (sodium and mercury lights) so that is where the major cut-out is. I say outdated since many cities have unfortunately moved to more broad-spectrum LED lighting. There is not any great way to combat this other than narrower band-passes (like the L-eNhance and other dual narrowband filters). Yes, you are right that star color is even worse with these dual narrowband filters so it’s a tradeoff between better contrast on the emission nebulae or better star color.
      Cheers, Nico

  3. Hi Nico, fortunately I live under a Bortle 4 sky so LP is not such a big problem, but I was still thinking of purchasing a dual band filter. I think there are a few more filters out there since your review here; do you intend to add them here for a ‘up-to-date” comparison?

    Also you mention poor star colour with DB filters. How would this normally be handled? I guess you would take filterless images and merge the stars from there in with the DB images?

    Thanks for your reviews here and the content on YouTube.. Tim

    1. Hi Tim,
      I would like to do another round-up, but can’t say when I’ll get to it. One filter that I’ve been particularly impressed with lately is the Svbony SV220 (two 7nm passes in Ha and OIII for only $160): https://tinyurl.com/svbony220 I used it for the data in my recent video about processing dual narrowband and found it was excellent, especially at that price point. Here’s the video: https://youtu.be/hLGjXJ3FxO0

      RE: star color. Yes, exactly. Take some images without filter and blend in the natural color stars. That would be the best way if natural star color is important for the image. Sometimes I just leave them desaturated (mostly white) and that can look good too.

      Cheers, Nico

  4. Hi, and thanks for all your work. Doesn’t get tiring of pointing that out. I just started with the hobby and very newbie, and I’m a little confused. I live in a bortle 4.5 ish place, but I have a few street lamps around that I can’t completely ignore. I’m waiting for a SV220 and I asked in a video of yours if I could use it every time, mainly to filter the light pollution. Your advice was to use just for emission nebulas. So I was thinking of getting this one, just for trying to block the light polution around me for non emission nebulas. I’m still trying to get my first images (what a struggle :/) and mainly trying on galaxies since they are more accessible, like M82, M101. Would it be a waste of money? My camera is a Canon EOS R6
    Thanks

    1. Yes, waste of money and time. A CLS is just like a less effective SV220. For galaxies, from Bortle 4/5, just shoot with no filter at all and get as much data as you can. The main issue with very localized light pollution is light trespass into your lens/telescope. If that happens, your images may be ruined. Only way around that is either moving your setup, getting the lights turned off or putting up a light block. Sometimes when imaging from the city, I had to put up a blanket strung across a couple tripod to stop the light from hitting the lens. This is only necessary if the light is directly shining into the lens. If it’s not, don’t worry about it.

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